Brolga - A Life Well Lived - Chapter 1 - Where the River Starts Talking

Brolga - A Life Well Lived - Chapter 1 - Where the River Starts Talking | Travelling Around Australia with Jeff Banks

He said it as if this sort of thing happened every day, as if riverbanks had always been studios and old fishermen had always known where to look. There was no self-consciousness in it, only that familiar ease some men carry without ever appearing to try. In another person it might have felt put on. In him it was just the morning taking its next step.

BROLGA

 

A Life Well Lived

 

Chapter 1 – Where the River Starts Talking

 

By the time we settled on that stretch of bank between the Condobolin showground and the town, the morning had already made us earn it. We had been up and about earlier, nosing around other likely spots along the river, pulling up here and there with the vague optimism that belongs to fishermen and fools, which in the right light can look like the same thing. One bend was too open. Another looked promising until it didn’t. One had the sort of water that ought to have held a fish, but somehow lacked conviction. That can happen on a river. A place can look right and still feel wrong. Then there are mornings when you come to a bank and know, before a line is cast or a word is spoken, that this is where you are meant to be.

 

This morning, that place was here.

 

The Lachlan moved past us with that quiet authority rivers have, indifferent to our plans and older than our reasons for being there. To us, and to plenty of others, it is the Lachlan. But we are Wiradjuri people, and the older name sits deeper in the country than the one written on maps. This river was the Galari long before it was anything else, and if you sit beside it long enough, especially in that early hush before the town has fully cleared its throat, the old name feels less like history and more like recognition. Names matter in that way. The official ones tell you where you are. The older ones tell you what you belong to.

 

It was early enough for the mist still to be rising off the water in low, soft layers, not so thick that it hid the opposite bank, but enough to take the edge off things and make the morning feel as though it was arriving reluctantly. Across the river the town was already beginning to stir. The service station was open, and there was the usual line of early starters doing what early starters always do, chasing coffee, fuel, and whatever sense of readiness can be purchased before the day properly begins. On the bypass, trucks moved through with the blunt indifference of machinery doing what it was built to do. They broke the bush silence now and then, but only briefly. The river absorbed most things, including noise.

 

Beside me sat Uncle Max, though to me and most of the family he had long since ceased to be Max. He was Brolga. To some men a nickname is decoration. To others it becomes the truer name. In his case it had settled so naturally over the years that Max felt almost formal, as if it belonged on paperwork and nowhere else. Brolga belonged on riverbanks, in sheds, in stories retold around kitchen tables and campfires, and in the sort of memories that are never entirely pinned down because they are made of voice as much as event.

 

He carried himself with the ease of a man who had spent enough time in places like this to know there was no value in forcing the day. Not because he was a bushman in the truest sense of the word. He wasn’t. He never owned land, never built a life around seasons, stock, rainfall, or the permanent obligations that come with calling a patch of country your own. His life was lived far closer to town than paddock, shaped more by houses, family, labouring work, riverbanks, sheds, and the shifting realities of making do than by any romantic notion of the man on the land.

 

And that matters, because it says something important about the kind of man he is. Brolga knew the bush, but as someone who moved through it, worked in it, fished beside it, and drew from it what he could. He worked in the sheds at times, did the hard practical jobs that country life throws at people whether they ask for them or not, and understood enough of that world to be at ease in it. But he was not one of those men bred to fences, paddocks and property lines. He belonged to the town as much as the river, to a family life lived in and around Condobolin, to Housing Commission streets, odd jobs, big families, and the sort of upbringing where survival depended less on acreage than on adaptability.

 

What he did have, though, was something just as telling. He knew how to sit still without looking lost. He knew how to wait without seeming idle. That is not only a bush skill. It belongs just as much to people who have spent their lives watching, listening, and learning not to waste themselves against things that won’t be hurried. Men like him understand that silence is not emptiness. It is often where the useful things turn up. There is an art in that, though younger people rarely recognise it until much later, usually after they have spent years talking over the top of moments that might have revealed something if only they had the patience to leave them alone.

 

I had set my phone up nearby and pressed record, more out of hope than certainty. I had questions, of course. More than a few. Enough to prod at a life and see what came loose. There is a difference between having questions and knowing when to ask them. Not every morning invites examination. Some mornings are better left alone for a while, allowed to gather themselves before anyone starts prodding at their edges. This felt like one of those. Two men sitting on a riverbank with nothing in their hands might be accused of loitering, or wasting time, or simply watching the day go by. Put a fishing rod in each of their hands, though, and suddenly they are engaged in something purposeful. The rods were out, the bait was in the water, and for a few minutes we sat there as men have sat beside rivers for generations, looking for all the world as though we were doing very little, while in truth doing exactly what the morning required.

 

That is one of the quiet virtues of fishing. It gives idleness a job description. It allows two people to sit side by side in near silence and still appear occupied, which in many ways they are. There is companionship in it, but none of the strain that often comes with conversation for conversation’s sake. Family or friends, it hardly matters. A river relieves you of the need to perform. You can speak if the moment suits, or let the line carry the burden of the pause. You can drift into memory, test the edge of an old story, then let it go slack again if it doesn’t want to be told just yet. There is no need to fill the quiet, no ceremony to observe, no obligation to turn every silence into significance. For once, doing very little is enough, and somehow more than enough.

 

That suited me fine. I have always liked mornings like that, the sort that come without fanfare and make no promise except presence. They are usually more generous than they first appear. A city person might have looked at what we were doing and seen inactivity, two men sitting by some brown water waiting on fish that may or may not have had the courtesy to show up. But that would have missed the point. The riverbank was never just about fish. It was about time without being ruled by it. It was about place, and in our case blood as well. It was about sitting beside a man whose life ran far wider than any summary could hold, and understanding that the best way into such a life was not to storm the front gate, but to wait until a side door opened of its own accord.

 

Condobolin has that effect on memory too. It sits there in the middle of New South Wales with the stubborn assurance of a place that has seen too much weather, too many governments, too many promises, and has sensibly stopped being impressed by any of them. People call it the geographic centre of the state, and perhaps that matters to some. But a place is never only where it sits on a map. It is the sum of the lives carried through it, the departures and returns, the old families, the river, the dust, the football, the funerals, the schools, the pubs, the houses people still refer to by who once lived there. Condobolin is like that. It lingers in a person’s speech. It shows up in what they notice and what they don’t bother explaining.

 

Brolga, sitting there with a line in the water and his attention moving easily between the river and the day around him, looked entirely in his element. Not posed. Not prepared. Just settled. I had not wanted to make too much of the phone. A camera or a microphone can change a man if he lets it. Some stiffen. Some perform. Some become strangely suspicious of their own voice, as though the simple act of being recorded turns ordinary speech into evidence. I had no interest in that. I wanted the morning as it was, or as near to it as we could manage. The river already had enough theatre in it. It did not need me directing traffic.

 

So I let the phone run and said very little.

 

From where we sat, the town and the bush met in that untidy Australian way that makes categories feel optimistic. We were in town, technically speaking. You could hear as much. Yet the river had its own jurisdiction. The showground was close enough, the bridge not far off, and the movement of trucks and trade reminded you that ordinary business had begun elsewhere. But where we were, none of that quite held sway. The water moved past in its own time. The mist lifted at its own pace. Even the bites, if they came, would come on terms not ours.

 

The older I get, the more I suspect that most worthwhile conversations begin exactly like that, not with urgency, but with room. Room to wait. Room to notice. Room for a memory to feel safe enough to make itself known. People rarely hand over the real story because they have been asked a good question. Usually they do it because the moment has become quiet enough for honesty to feel less like an exposure and more like a natural next thing.

 

That was the hope, anyway.

 

I looked across at him once or twice, not wanting to force a beginning, and wondered where a life like his ought to be entered. Childhood seemed too obvious. Fishing perhaps more natural. Men will often tell you more if you start with what their hands know than if you aim straight at their heart. Ask them about a river, a dog, a horse, a shed, and before long you may find yourself standing in the doorway of an entirely different story. It is the scenic route into truth, and in my experience the better one.

 

The lines sat still enough. Somewhere upstream a bird gave itself away. On the far side of the river the service station had found its rhythm, and another truck rolled through on the bypass, its sound flattening out over the water before disappearing west. The morning was widening now. Condobolin was properly awake. But where we sat, time still felt local.

 

And then, as if he had suddenly remembered the phone was there and decided he may as well make use of it, Brolga glanced toward it and broke the spell with the easiest greeting in the world.

 

“How you going, guys?”

 

He said it as if this sort of thing happened every day, as if riverbanks had always been studios and old fishermen had always known where to look. There was no self-consciousness in it, only that familiar ease some men carry without ever appearing to try. In another person it might have felt put on. In him it was just the morning taking its next step.

 

That was how it started.

 

Not with a declaration. Not with the weight of family history arriving all at once. Not with the heavy machinery of significance grinding into motion. Just that. A line in the water. Mist lifting off the Galari. Trucks muttering their way around town. A phone recording on the bank. And Brolga, with all the years behind him, turning to the day as though it had been waiting for him to speak first.

 

There are lives that announce themselves in headlines, and there are others that reveal their scale slowly, almost shyly, in the spaces between ordinary remarks. His, I suspected, belonged to the second kind. The kind you could miss entirely if you were in too much of a hurry. The kind that asks to be approached as you would a riverbank at first light: with a bit of patience, some respect for silence, and the sense to know that what looks still on the surface may already be moving underneath.

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