Around Oz the First Time - Chapter 36 - Fourth Week Down

A lunar month down, and this week we have done what we set out to do – see the Kimberly – well parts of it. Lake Argyle, Kununurra and El Questro we have covered in no more than 300km of driving.  This week we have spent less than $200 on fuel, and given I did most of the running around, that’s a comfort.

To say the Kimberly is a place you need to experience is an understatement. We are here at the end of the dry season, we must come back during the wet to see it with water running over cliffs and waterfalls, not simply trickling like we have experienced so far.

I am more than happy we have not seen as many crocodiles as I perceived there would be, but have seen enough, almost treading on one, to know a boat is a much better idea than bank fishing. Not without trying, still no fish to report, although whilst fishing, we have seen lots of fauna. The rivers and creeks allow not only the life-giving water but the shade of the trees as well.

Whilst its been hot we have not been free camping, so the air-conditioning is a godsend. We do not sleep with it on but tend to have it on during the day which keeps things comfortable. The big thing I have noticed is the absence of flies, whilst there are bugs and they accumulate around the lights at night, there have been very few flies, save the odd friend Forbsy makes in his Cruiser which makes for lots of banter whilst driving. We are of course yet to see a feral camel. Forbsy made the call ex Katherine that we would soon see one, the week has past and they must have taken camel-flarge to a new level as we are yet to see one.

One of the biggest takeaways from the week that was, is the difference water makes. We have been ostensibly in the Ord River Valley the entire week at the end of the dry season and the lushness of the vegetation and cropping undertaken on this cast tableland are enormous but drive out of the irrigation areas and the spinifex and stunted trees soon take over. Also disappointing is the almost of burnt out areas of vegetation along the roads, meaning one thing, human carelessness.

Human intervention though can make an experience. This land is spectacular but enormous. A drive “just down the road” can mean 300kms without a blink of an eyelid. You cannot survive here on your own, you need the insurance of others in case things go wrong. The country spirit is centred around that.

I wonder will the city ever get it back.