Around Oz the First Time - Chapter 12 - Corella Dam to Barkely Homestead

Last night was dark, very dark. I have been in the bush, below Burrinjuck Dam with a large group of Cub Scouts (both Robyn and I have been Scout Leaders in our time) where even though the night was moonless you could make your way around the open paddocks. Then, there was enough light once the naked eye took over, away from any unnatural light to pollute the iris, but here next to the dam surrounded by ghost gums the darkness is all encompassing. The moon will take a while to rise and a cool change is coming.

You can hear it through the trees and it is fierce. The wind brings the temperature down with it. What was a very pleasant afternoon turns into a cold night and the morning does not heat up. Today we expect only 23 degrees.

Up early as we have a long way to travel today, we check the yabby traps and Silver Leader and I have a red claw in each. Good start. Even though the wind is very fresh and from a difficult direction for light gear, I managed a few more casts with the lures but except for a swirl behind the lure at one stage no excitement to rival the capture of yesterday.

The first chore of the day is to get out of the camp. Having come in a very densely bushed trail, Silver Leader has worked out he erred and has found the “right” way out. There is no bush, just rocky outcrops and at places the crests of hills bring spectacular views which cause us to take even more pictures.

Up to the road through 2 gates, both of which Robyn needs to close as we are the last in the queue. Left turn and off to Mount Isa. For Robyn this will be potentially traumatic as 40 years ago an incident you might suggest inspired the movie Wolf Creek occurred which took her older sister. Today we are meeting with the detectives from Mount Isa who were part of the team that had opened the closed case and subsequently made the arrest.

They meet us, and after the formalities of a country hello (including bear hugs) they proceed to arrange a cuppa and a tour of Mount Isa. There are discussions of the case of course, but as well, many family-oriented questions seem to get a better understanding of the effects on those who matter. We end up at where according to the two detectives is the shining light in Mount Isa, the local dam. Here they talk about Barramundi impoundment, water skiing and peacocks. The wind means the lake is blown out and nowhere near as serene as we suspect it is when at its best.

They warn us that on our way out we will be crossing Spear Creek, the locale of the murders. They are compassionate “in the max” and almost did not mention it in fear of emotions bubbling over. Robyn is handling the situation very well. They deposit us back to our van, we bid farewell, catch up with Silver Leader who is anxious to get on the road as Forbsy has already left, after re-batterying his van to the tune of $900, and then quickly head to the supermarket for a few supplies. We need to fuel up now as the next stop, Camooweal is well outside the calculated range of the present reserves.

I nearly muck that up as the detectives had said there was a Shell Roadhouse on the way. The station was much farther out than I had anticipated, and I almost considered returning to the city centre because I thought I had perhaps missed it. No problem, although it’s on the other side of the road, we refuel and head off in search of our running mates. The plan is to refill at Camooweal, the last stop inside Queensland, as it is rumoured the fuel price at Barkley will be much higher.

The road out of Mount Isa is much less undulating than the incoming trip. The cruise control goes on and the Cruiser simply does the rest. The country opens up very quickly and with the wind in the rear quarter we make good time. Camooweal is made just after the others have refuelled and are sitting in the appointed parking area having lunch. We make it to the service station and refuel before joining them. Lucky we did, as the queue just after we left was 10 long. The fuel price was much higher here than Mount Isa – 178.9 as opposed to 148.9 per litre. Lucky we only need a quarter of a tank.

Out on the road with the “old crew” back together, Forbsy has taken the lead and Silver Leader gives him heaps. Our GPS tells us there are no turns between Camooweal and Barkley Roadhouse and Silver Leader suggests to Forbsy even he shouldn’t get lost. Big talk coming from the guy who tossed a coin last night and led us down something way more than a garden path dispatching a rear view mirror to the bush one thinks. The banter on the radio goes backwards and forwards. Discussions about the attire of the anthills, many people have applied tee-shorts and other attire to various anthills – nothing better to do but to break up a long trip.

There are times when you might suggest there is nothing to see, such is the vastness of the vista, but there are falcons patrolling, thinning roadkill to comment about, the odd herd of cattle surrounding a dam, a group of bustards and some horses. At times the rolling of the road is synonymous with the music a car will be listening to and a conversation around that fact will ensue.

Vast areas of cleared planes of dry grasses, such are the Barkley Tablelands, then all of a sudden you will come up on a line of trees surrounding what at times are dry creek beds, at others, ponds of dirty water, but always changes in the vista. Roadkill has been very sparse for some time suggesting either a modicum of wildlife or water in other places.

We stop for pictures at the Northern Territory border. I even try for a slow-motion Toyota advertisement type jump – but fail miserably.

Onward for a total 508km for the day and we finally head into our destination. For a joke at 10km out I hit the radio with “Barkley Station this is Delta Yankie India passing the 10km marker requesting permission to land. The others chime in with things like your seat belts should now be fastened and your tray back to the upright position etc. At 5km I call again “Delta Yankie India on final requesting runway 29”. 29 because we are travelling almost north west and that would be the bearing. The jibe back is – you better hope there is not a turn before we land. Good one Silver Leader.

Landed and taxied to our spot, we set the van for the night. Power and water here so the set up is all of 5 minutes longer than at a free camp. The grey water hose is deployed but only to drain onto the dusty ground. The van beside us might be doing a load of washing as their hose has created a small lake of grey water. None of this is effluent related as they have to have contained systems for toilets in vans. Robyn muses we need to find a dump point as our lavatory must be getting close to full.

Just missed happy hour in the Barkley Roadhouse Bar but with the wind still howling, why get the barbeques out when a bar and grill is adjacent. Not just food and libations, tonight there is live entertainment. An excellent way to pass the evening before bed.