Around Oz the First Time - Chapter 27 - Katherine to Lake Argyle

Looking at a 505km drive today we wanted to get going early. The call was for an 8.00am start which we all looked good for until Silver Leader worked out, he had no water pumps on the van. It is thought that if the van power gets below a certain point the onboard system takes out big users of power. We will monitor this during the day and see if it comes back. In the meantime Silver Leader switched from on board power to car and the pumps worked, catastrophe averted.

Getting out of the spots we were in looked like a challenge given some very low hanging branches in our path until we noticed the garbage bins had gone leaving large holes in the path edges, we could use rather than trying to negotiate the low hanging branches. Off we go, our first stop is Margaret and Mervyn at a park much closer to town to drop off food we are unable to take into WA. Potatoes, onions, tomatoes and all citrus are on the prohibited list. These are packed up ready for the transfer, after which a quick fuel up and then off to Lake Argyle.

The rendezvous occurs, the food transferred, and we are quickly at the service station, where for no apparent reason, I cop a gob full from a fellow patron. I have parked at the diesel only bowse, yes I am on the opposite side to what one might say I should and I use the truck overhang to get the nozzle to the fuel tank, but he is driving a petrol driven car. The bloke on the other side is a fisherman filling up not only his tanks but extra tanks as well as he is on his way home to Mackay and I suspect might do much longer legs than we are attempting, and I have not blocked him anywhere as he comes alongside to wind down his window and hurl the abuse. No hint as to what I had done “wrong”, just abuse.

You simply cannot please all of the people all of the time, but what it does is make me wonder what I had done to deserve the tirade for many a kilometre up the road.

So, potentially a five plus hour drive, which at one point will go back one and a half hours, as we cross the border into WA. What might one expect? Will we have to tough it out relentlessly driving across featureless land, or will the day bring unexpected thrills?

The inquisition takes no time to suggest it’s going to be one of those days full of surprises. The first surprise is a willy willy that is strong enough to make the onboard computer disengage the cruise control. No unduly swaying of the van but enough to give you a start. Forbsy has called the expectation of camel sighting today and we work on comments of the topography changes, whilst noting no camels to see. The fine for a no camel day may very well be a shout of the bar or a nudie run. Robyn grabs the radio and calls Bar, Bar, Bar, not really wanting Forbsy to expose himself to the elements.

The topography changes, and changes quickly. There will be spots of what seem endless plains of grass, then bare ground. In the distance you will see hills that as you approach them create spectacular vistas let alone what is on the other side. There are a number of obstacles to us maintaining our regular speed, a couple of other nomads and a road train with 4 fuel tankers that we negotiate on a large expanse of flat road.

Then into a hill and Robyn calls “kangaroo” and before I can take anything like evasive action (thankfully) the animal has hit the side of the car and been propelled back onto the verge. I cannot stop as the road train is right behind me and although I might be able to stop quickly, he has no chance. Silver Leader askes do we want to stop immediately, the Cruiser and van seem to be travelling OK so I suggest the next truck stop. Its about 5km along and we pull in. The Road Train, still right behind us must be listening to our conversations on the radio and is out on the other side of the road well before we put the blinkers on to head into the stop.

Pulled up we investigate if there has been any damage. There has, the running board steps are well and truly covered with kangaroo fur, there are splattering of blood on the passenger from and rear doors and a crease in the rear door which seems to have taken the bulk of the hit. Pictures are taken, the van has not been touched evidently and we continue for our first “planned” stop, Timber Creek, about 300km from Katherine.

Timber Creek is on the Victoria River and is surrounded on all sides by magnificent escarpments. Pictures going in, pictures of the information centre billboards and pictures going out are the order of the day. We lunch here and splash the vehicles with fuel, not so much because we have to but as a safety precaution against high prices in WA and Silver Leaders Jeep not really having the capacity, even though we are enjoying the best economy of the trip. I am down to close to 20 litres per 100km on this leg.

60% of the leg travelled and still no camels, Forbsy is squirming in his seat with the repeated jibes reminding him of the earlier call. Boab trees, heaps of them, some graffitied, some not and all different shapes and sizes. All the trees are leafless, probably awaiting the wet season for the next flowering and leaf growth.

100km from our final destination, Silver Leader calls a potty break. Robyn takes the wheel and we resume the trip. With the scenery changing constantly and the continual Boab tree settings, I am like a pig in mud, taking shot after shot. Robyn is taking her time, Silver Leader has backed off accordingly. Silver Leader notes my shrewdness at letting Robyn drive for now as any fines for quarantine violations are imposed on the driver, aren’t they?

We hit the WA border and the quarantine station and are met by a very personable officer. He jokes about this and that, including his secret fishing spots in the Kimberly, and peruses the inside of the van and the Cruiser particularly for honey but also citrus and other fruit. Robyn declares we still have some apples and he confiscates them and jokingly suggests there are grapes on the van as he surreptitiously grabs a bottle of wine from the fried and sticks it under his arm in jest. No harm no foul, we have not tried to hide anything, and in fact he suggests if we want, we can pull over and stew the apples of we want, then we will be able to continue with them.

Frivolity over, we head on down to the turn off to Lake Argyle and the Lake Argyle Resort. Robyn is very careful here as the road isn’t really wide enough for two vehicles and she slows significantly at the sight of another vehicle, putting wheels in the dirt. For a bus she actually stops off the road and is given a hearty wave by the bus driver. Into the camp we are ushered to our spots and it takes no time to set up. Vans unhitched, awning out and all the normal rigmarole of a powered site visit all dealt with, then its tome for a reconnoitre (find the pub). Silver Leader and Forbsy was a quick dip in the infinity pool as well, which is the first location scouted. I take some amazing shots of them in the pool and the surrounding countryside. Its been a huge day for scenery shots, as has most of the tour to date.

The watering hole sourced we are discussing the plan for the ensuing days, a dinner cruise, Kununurra day trip, booking El Questro etc, lots to do, but tomorrow is a chill day. 1,000 km and a night cruise in 2 days has taken it out of me at least. Time to stop and smell the roses.

Whilst we are doing this, we notice the evening’s entertainment, a soloist has taken up position on the grass by the infinity pool with the eastern cliff face behind him. The sun on the cliff with him as a silhouette needs to be snapped, which I do with zeal. I even catch a helicopter taking off but the backdrop is only blue sky as he gets too high before I snap it. Perhaps that might be us while we are here.

As further entertainment we make our daily call to the Missing Link who has great news. Just before we all left, he was blessed with 2 grandchildren (the first ones), and now another of his daughters has announced, on Fathers Day, she is also expecting a little boy (the first male in the line) and is due on her father’s birthday in February. This is great news given everything we hear from him about his van not being up to spec and terminal illnesses in the family were getting him down.